Alpamayo High Camp
Alpamayo High Camp (5,400 masl): (Mountaineering) The Alpamayo is one of the most famous mountains in the world for its beautiful aesthetic wall with mushroom-shaped snow formations, cornices of snow polished by the wind and countless shapes that make this wall famous. People from all over the world visit the Alpamayo to either try to conquer its summit (5,947 masl) which has a considerable grade of difficulty or simply enjoy the incredible approach to the high camp that begins with the Santa Cruz trek and passes through the most emblematic peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. The meeting point is in Lima to take the bus together to the city of Huaraz where we stay one night prior to the expedition in order to acclimatize, rest and make final purchases. The next day we go by private transport to Cashapampa, where the expedition of 6 days to the high camp of Alpamayo begins and ends. Throughout these 6 days you will be able to observe world-known peaks such as Taulliraju, Artesonraju, Quitaraju among others. We will also cross a spectacular glacier with some ideal snow ramps to be your first alpine climbs just before reaching the high camp where you will be able to appreciate some of the most impressive views of Peru. During the expedition we include all the camping equipment and dining tent with meals and kitchen utensils with their respective chef, we also provide you with all the technical equipment and professional mountain guides. For this adventure it is recommended to have gone to Pico de Orizaba or some other mountain with more than 4,500 meter in height. Cheer up to live one of the best mountaineering experiences for beginners with little experience that this beautiful country has to offer!
- Sunglasses 100% UV
- Toque and Buff
- Inner Gloves
- Waterproof Gloves
- Sleeping Bag (-13°C)
- Sleeping Pad
- Thermal T-Shirt
- Thermal Pants
- Merino T-Shirt
- Merino Pants
- Hiking Pants (Softshell)
- Waterproof Pants (Hardshell)
- Polar Jacket
- Waterproof Jacket (Hardshell)
- Down Jacket
- Polyester Hiking Socks (6/7 pairs)
- Mountaineering Automatic Boots
- Hiking Shoes or Boots
- Backpack (60 L)
- Backpack (25 L)
- Water Bottles (2 L)
- Arrival to Lima
- Travel on bus to Huaraz City
- Acclimatization and preparation day
- Last chance to make purchases
- Brief prior the expedition
- Travel from Huaraz to Cashapampa (3 hrs by car)
- Cashapampa to Llamacorral (4 hrs by walking)
- Llamacorral to Alpamayo´s Base Camp (5 hrs by walking)
- Base Camp to Morraine Camp (3 hrs by walking)
- At Morraine Camp we will gear up for crossing glacier terrain to High Camp (5 hrs by walking and easy climbing)
- Full day at Alpamayo´s High Camp (Rest Day)
- Day for taking photos and enjoying this beautiful location (Summit Day for those who are prepared for)
- High Camp to Base Camp (8 hrs by walking and rappeling)
- Base Camp to Cashapampa (7 hrs by walking)
- Travel from Cashapampa to Huaraz (3 hrs by car)
- Expeditions ends
- Travel back to Lima
Climbing Rating Systems
Beginner | Advanced Beginner | Intermediate | Advanced Intermediate | Advanced
Yosemite Decimal System
- Grade I: Up to three hours.
- Grade II: Three to five hours.
- Grade III: Five to eight hours.
- Grade IV: Ten to fifteen hours, generally at least 5.7
- Grade V: Overnight on the route.
- Grade VI: Multiple days of hard technical climbing.
- Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style.
Difficulty (CLASS): Uses numbers one through five.
Class 1 : Easy trail walking.
Class 2: Hiking on more difficult trails.
Class 3: Scrambling, using hands and feet.
Class 4: Scrambling with exposure. Rope should be used.
Class 5: Technical rock climbing. Further broken down as 5.0, 5.1, 5.2 to 5.9. At 5.10 it is subdivided into 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a up to 5.15d.
Class 6: Aid Climbing. Using equipment to climb and hang off of, rather than body movement on the rock. This class is further broken down by numbers preceded by the letter “A”.
- A1: Easy aid. No risk of a piece pulling out.
- A2: Moderate aid. Solid gear that’s more difficult to place.
- A2+: 10-meter fall potential from tenuous placements, but without danger.
- A3: Hard aid. Many tenuous placements in a row, 15-meter fall potential, could require several hours for a single pitch.
- A3+: A3 with dangerous fall potential.
- A4: Serious aid. 30-meter ledge-fall potential from continuously tenuous gear.
- A4+: Even more serious, with even greater fall potential, where each pitch could take many hours to lead.
- A5: Extreme aid. Nothing on the entire pitch can be trusted to hold a fall.
- A6: A5 climbing with belay anchors that won’t hold a fall either.
French Alpine System
In contrast to the Yosemite Decimal System (described earlier), the French alpine system evaluates the overall difficulty of a route, taking into consideration the length, difficulty, exposure, altitude and commitment-level, number of difficult pitches and how sustained they are, and quality of rock, snow and ice. It is world-wide recognized and it is often used to grade mountain climbs.
- F: facile (easy). Rock scrambling or easy snow slopes; some glacier travel or easy uphills; often climbed ropeless except on glaciers.
- PD: peu difficile (slightly difficult). Routes may be longer at altitude, with snow and ice slopes up to 45 degrees. Glaciers are more complex, scrambling is harder, climbing may require some belaying, descent may involve rappelling. More objective hazards.
- AD: assez difficile (fairly difficult). Fairly hard, snow and ice at an angle of 45–65 degrees, belayed climbing in addition to a large amount of exposed but easier terrain. Significant objective hazard.
- D: difficile (difficult). Hard, more serious with rock climbing at 5.5 up to 5.7 (YDS), snow and ice slopes at 50–70 degrees. Routes may be long and sustained or harder but shorter. Serious objective hazards.
- TD: très difficile (very difficult). Very hard routes, at this grade are serious undertakings with high levels of objective danger. Sustained snow and ice at an angle of 65–80 degrees, rock climbing at grade 5.8 up to 5.10b with possible aid, very long sections of hard climbing.
- ED1/2/3: extrêmement difficile (extremely difficult). Extremely hard, exceptional objective danger, vertical ice slopes and rock climbing up to 5.10a to 5.12b, with possible aid pitches.
- ABO: Abominablement difficile (abominable). Difficulty and danger at their limit.
Mountain environments can be harsh and unforgiving but when conditions are right, there is no more serene or authentic natural environment. Many mountaineers feel a deep connection with the mountains and develop unmatched feelings of achievement as a result of their accomplishments. Getting to the top of a mountain often tests a person both physically and mentally so it’s no wonder accomplishments become very significant for many mountaineers. As a result, experiences and connections in the mountains can be deeply personal. Mountaineering skill development is best done by spending time in the mountains.